Muskitz, Day Two

We all slept as long as we wanted this morning, wandering into the kitchen whenever we got up.  Found nice rolls baked by Uxua (sister of Ramon, not niece), tea, fruit.  By about noon we were all ready for some low level activity -- although it must be said that Ramon's brother Mickey was cooking up a storm in the kitchen. He had pots bubbling on many burners, preparing the vegetables for a huge dish for dinner.

Ramon's siblings and in-laws arrived through the day, and by lunchtime they were all here:  Mickey and Teresa, Koldo and Sylvia and daughter Uxua, Maria, Uxua, Javier, Inaki, Ramon and Laura, Marta and 3 year old Otto. Their oldest brother Juan died about ten years ago.

Un-renovated house to the left.

In the meantime, Laura and Peio took us on a full tour of Muskitz. First we went through the whole house from top to bottom. Then we went next door and explored the uninhabited house that the family owns but cannot possibly afford to renovate right now. They put a new roof on a few years ago, to keep it from falling down.  In the lowest level it is very spooky, with cobwebs dripping from the large oak beams, and chickens and rabbits living in cages.  Someone takes care of them.  The middle level has a vast hallway down the middle with five doors on each side.  Bedrooms, kitchen, dining room.  The kitchen has a huge chimney over the center, a cone that carries the smoke from the fire, up and out.  The top level is one huge space -- the whole building, which must be 80'x100' (wild guess).

Pretty loud when so close.

A reasonable distance when the
bells ring.

We went to see the recently renovated village church, even climbing up into the bell tower (which surprised us by ringing at 1:00 and then again at about 1:01 and then about 20 times...we couldn't figure it out).  Saw the new space for a new gastronomic society that Peio and Antxon now belong to (so much like the common house, but with a beautiful bar) and three apartments above that are soon to be rented.  They got funding from the valley (all the villages in this valley, together) to renovate the building, and the valley will get the rents from the building for the first 30 years.  Very cool.

I can absolutely imagine Peio being the mayor of this village at some time. He is exactly the same here as he was in Virginia. He stops and talks to everyone, everyone is a friend, he is interested in every possible conversation. 

From Benjamin's seat at the table.

At left, tuna, canned by Mickey; in center, big pan of
vegetables with white asparagus spokes and
fried cauliflower; and at the right, a salad of
pickled onions and olives.

Dinner was at about 2:30.  All the family around the table, with the English speakers clustered at one end.  First course was pickled onions and olives, second course was a giant pot of vegetables and ham and eggs (artichokes, cardoons, cauliflower, asparagus) called Menestra (mixture) that was a masterpiece, third course was sausage from their own pig, and for dessert cheese and nougat candy.  Then coffee and conversation.  Various people drifted off to the couches or chairs for a nap.  The family sat in small groups, big groups, hanging out for hours.  I typed and typed, trying to catch up with the last few days.  Benjamin and Peio and Jon went out for an early evening walk in the hills.

Javier (not sure of relation), Inaki, Mickey, Koldo, Uxua (the younger), Antxon (standing) and Sylvia
during the cheese course.

10:30 PM update -- 

We are now back at the apartment in Pamplona, have said goodbye to Peio who went back to school about 100 km away (a school for Basque people only, training them in maintaining and fabricating industrial machinery), and have had yet another delicious meal.  Chicory raw and cooked, both delicious. Not bitter at all, just like lettuce in salad or like spinach or chard when cooked.  Eggs, then cheese and apple jelly for dessert.  More lively conversation about the chicken/egg question, snapping turtles, and Laura's grandfather and father's life work spreading adult literacy throughout the world.  Tomorrow we leave the cozy care of the Ayestaran family and head south.